A New Day in Egypt

By Lee Ann Holtschulte

Lee Ann and Chris at the Pyramids of Giza

Our trip was intended to be an adventurous journey but we certainly never expected to travel during the aftermath of a revolution.  We traveled to Egypt the beginning of March and the trip was met with resistance and caution from our families and friends.  On some level, we expected an excitable country still energized from the revolution yet protective of their new freedoms.  We were surprised to find few signs of a revolution and instead found a bustling young city with busy roads and unrivaled traffic.

People did not open up right away about their experiences from the revolution but as soon as we asked, there was almost no stopping them.  We met many taxi drivers who were more than happy to share their perspectives.  Most described Mubarak as a “bad man,” accusing him of stealing from the Egyptians.  They expressed relief that he was gone, often giving a thumbs up in response.

Temple of Hatshepsut

Our first stop was the Citadel, home to many of Egypt’s ancient rulers.  Like many other popular tourist spots, it was deserted and we had a beautiful view of the city all to ourselves, including the beautiful sounds of the afternoon prayer rising from each corner of Cairo.

Nile River

The lack of crowds was something we would see throughout our time, from Giza to destinations along the Nile. It was not until traveling to the Sinai Peninsula that we finally saw tourists.  Much of Egypt’s economy depends on tourism, and those in the industry were curious about where we were from, what we would be seeing while in Egypt and if we felt safe and comfortable.

Mt. Sinai

On a few occasions, young English-speaking Egyptians would stop us on the street to ask if we needed any help, they expected nothing from us and simply wanted to practice their English and engage with tourists.  At Ramses Train station in Cairo, a young man guided us around the facility and took us right up to the ticket counter that we were seeking.  Then he wished us the best, welcomed us to Egypt and simply walked away. Simple acts of kindness and hospitality like this were not uncommon.

Aside from the dearth of tourists, the remnants of the revolutions were best seen in Tahrir Square.  Each Friday thousands of Egyptians gather there to celebrate their accomplishments and freedom and to honor lives lost in the struggle.  Driving through Cairo one Friday afternoon, we asked our taxi driver if he could take us through Tahrir Square.  He explained that he would not be able to get through the traffic or the people and went on to tell us about the celebrations.  He drove to the outskirts, as close as he could get; and we walked from there.

Tahrir Square

Surprisingly, the celebrations are patrolled by young teenage boys.  To even enter Tahrir Square on Friday evening, we had to present our passports to a fourteen-year-old boy.

Children at Tahrir Square

Excited participants returned to the square with flags and stickers to cheer, sing and listen to speakers passionately share their dreams for the future.  The excitement was palpable.  Many Egyptian children were even getting their faces painted proudly red, white and black.  The colors filled every corner and were mixed with smiling Egyptians taking pictures and enjoying the atmosphere.  This was my favorite part of our entire journey around the country.  The historic scenes I’d watched broadcast from Tahrir Square were suddenly a beautiful, unforgettable reality.  When the sun began to set, just before the celebration ended, participants started selling popcorn and setting off fireworks.

Two Boys at Tahrir Square

The Egyptians we encountered were happy to welcome us and excited to share their newly free country.  Although Egyptians have a great deal of work ahead of them in reforming their nation, they expressed a great deal of pride and ownership in the process.  Many even encouraged us to invite others to visit and experience Egypt, a recommendation that we fullheartedly endorse.

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Lee Ann Holtschulte is a Master’s candidate of International Peace and Conflict Resolution at American University’s School of International Service.  She is also the Communications Intern for Search for Common Ground, based in our DC office. She traveled to Egypt independently earlier this month.